Tuesday, April 19, 2022

Animal Style

I generally believe in the value of traditions. Ritual and habit are important in my life. I've had a lot of success by hanging on to the things that work well while discarding others that lead me astray. I value process and results achieved by practicing and doing the same things over and over. This is true for my work and my personal life and just everything in general. Call it a credo, if you will.

While this philosophy has worked in many areas of my life, it has unfortunately not worked well in travel, primarily because my range of interests are so broad that I rarely visit the same place twice. Other than some continually refined packing habits, my choice of destinations has limited real travel traditions. There have been some notable exceptions to my generally observed never-visit-the-same-place-twice rule of thumb: New York City, Las Vegas and California come to mind here, although honestly California is so big that it's not exactly the same experience every time out.

But there has been one travel tradition I've tried to observe about every time I head to the western part of the United States. And by "the western part" I generally mean those old standbys of Las Vegas and California along with places like Utah. The tradition? A trip to the best fast food hamburger chain out there: In-N-Out Burger. 

Although In-N-Out may dispute the fast food part of that label. 

I don't know when exactly love at first bite turned into a tradition. I first headed to In-N-Out I believe with my friend Jim somewhere in the vicinity of San Diego between the mid-1990s or early 2000s. There was no social media back then to preserve my first experience with this wonderfulness. I'm not sure it really matters but I am most definitely in love.

I should say that I don't generally eat fast food, although if it was healthy I have to tell you I'd be eating Big Macs and Taco Bell on a weekly basis (I can't remember the last McDonald's trip I've taken although I have made a run for the border this calendar year). But there is no way I am missing some In-N-Out on a trip to the west coast.

What's so great about In-N-Out, you may ask? Quite simply (and I don't mean to be stupid here), it's the taste and that's it. Fresh, never frozen beef cooked to order on fresh baked bread with all the fixings accompanied by made-to-order fries using potatoes peeled on site and run through the fry making press (or whatever the gadget is called that In-N-Out associates push whole potatoes into fry form is called) right in front of your eyes. No microwaves, no heat lamps, no constant cooking of burgers and fries so you can get served maybe a freshly cooked hamburger with fries in seconds. You order, they cook, you wait, you eat, you love.

The bread by the way...same bakery since they founded the restaurant chain in the 1940s.

My In-N-Out order will always be the same: Combo #1. Double Double meal. Double hamburger with cheese, lettuce, tomato and spread (their word, not mine) and fries on the side. And add onions. Always add the onions. Those onions make the whole thing sing. The sandwich is so good. So juicy. So perfect. It's the best fast food out there. 

Why am I so stuck in my ways with my order? Why no chicken sandwich or fish sandwich or pork-pressed-into-a-rack-of-ribs shaped sandwich or a salad or kids meal or a wrap or something else? Simple. There is none of that. There never has been. In-N-Out has four things on their menu (not counting shakes or drinks): hamburger, cheeseburger, Double Double and fries. That's it. That's the way it's always been. Quality you can taste. You are selling burgers and fries. That's why.

So of course a stop at In-N-Out was a part of our four-day L.A. and Palm Springs itinerary. Had to be. The only question was where. 

We figured why not get right to it. We had an early morning flight with a 9:30 a.m. or so landing at LAX. That would be 12:30 p.m. Eastern time. By the time we de-planed, got the rental car and started driving to Palm Springs, I figured we'd be good and ready for some lunch. That schedule seemed to be perfectly timed with In-N-Out's 10:30 in the morning opening time. We figured that would give us enough time to clear the city and pull off the highway somewhere around...say...Baldwin Park.

Now as luck would have it (OK, so it wasn't exactly just luck), Baldwin Park was the site of the very first In-N-Out Burger ever. It was opened in 1948 by Harry and Esther Snyder in the same town where they decided to settle after meeting and marrying. It was in Baldwin Park that the single drive-in location under Harry and Esther's care grew into a legend. Their fame spread through southern California surf and car culture and celebrities like Frank Sinatra, Bob Hope and Dinah Shore stopping in for a burger on their way to Palm Springs. Just like us.

By the way, In-N-Out is STILL family owned, despite many over the decades looking to buy in. 

The original store is long gone, demolished in 1954 in an eminent domain land grab to construct the I-10 freeway, but Baldwin Park is still In-N-Out ground zero with not only a restaurant where you can pick up a delicious Double Double combo, but also the official company store and In-N-Out University right on the same property.

But the real treat for In-N-Out lovers like me is on the north side of the freeway. Walk under the underpass and lo and behold...a replica of the original drive-in. And yes, it's staffed and open for visitors. It's just glorious.


How incredible is it that this burger chain did this? There's absolutely no business reason that I can fathom for them to build a replica of their original joint and then pay someone to open it up and stay there for hours to talk to fast food tourists, but it's amazing to see. This is an historical reconstruction and nothing more and they treat it like a shrine.

The original stand was literally just a single kitchen room with about enough space for a couple of employees to cook food, grab a soft drink from the cooler and hand the whole meal through the window to the customer's car. There are no spots to eat, no tables inside or out. Just a driveway with a two-way speaker connected to the kitchen. Order. Drive up. Get food. Drive out. There's not a whole lot more than that to look at. It's that simple. And simple here is good.

There are a couple of great details in the reconstructed restaurant. First, and thank God this is gone from most places now, a cigarette machine where you could grab a pack of smokes for a penny while you wait for your food. I'm not kidding. Mounted on the pole advertising the restaurant is a cigarette machine. I'm assuming it's no longer working although honestly, I didn't check. I can't think of much worse than a little tobacco and tar with my Double Double or fries.



Second, walk around back and you'll find one of the company's original potato washers. That's right: potato washers. Back in the day, after the potatoes were hand peeled, they were washed. The left-hand side of the contraption does the washing and the right side has a basket to allow the clean taters to be hand-spun dry. Anybody who's ever put any sort of wet vegetable in hot oil (guilty, by the way, with artichokes!) knows that's a recipe for overflowing oil and just general disaster. The potato washer is way cooler than the cigarette machine.

I realize my love of In-N-Out is a bit of an obsession but since honestly it affects my behavior maybe once every three years or so, I think it's an acceptable obsession. It is shared to some degree by my wonderful wife, who as my girlfriend years ago having been dragged to a fast food restaurant in Las Vegas with tales of this amazing burger must have thought I was a little loopy or at best had my priorities a little wrong. I'm happy she's seen the light. It's the onions, I swear. Always get the onions.

The title of this post is a reference to In-N-Out's secret menu, which is now published on their website and so really isn't that secret after all. Call me a purist or just boring but we've ordered off the secret menu and we now pass. The Double Double is the thing. I realize that the standard regular lunch isn't for everyone so if you feel like walking on the wild side a bit at In-N-Out, order off the secret menu or just get some animal style fries, which is regular fries covered with their signature spread and somehow not on the secret menu on the website. I'll join you for a Combo #1.

Quality you can taste. I'm telling you.



How We Did It

The In-N-Out Burger in Baldwin Park is open daily from 10:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. with an extra half hour tacked on to closing time on Fridays and Saturdays. Go here or any other still family owned store whenever you are close to one in California, Arizona, Colorado, Utah, Texas, Nevada or Oregon. I will for sure later this year when we get back to Cali for another long weekend.

The Company Store is located right across the parking lot from the restaurant and is open Monday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. We visited and bought nothing. As much as I love the Double Doubles, the quality of branded merch that In-N-Out makes and sells leaves a little to be desired for me. Love the food. Not wearing the swag, as much as I want to.

If you really want to visit the replica of the original drive-in In-N-Out Burger, you'll have to be a bit more selective about your visiting time. It's open from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Thursday through Sunday only. You can still visit and take pictures from beyond the fence at other times, but you'll miss the potato washer if you do.


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